Week 309 · Hermosa Beach · Tortuga Surf Camp · Croc Stop · Costa Rica
We were not on a timetable so we stopped in several places on the way. One was Hermosa Beach which is renowned for its volcanic black sand beaches. We parked and had miles of beach to ourselves. It was about 95 degrees and we walked out on the beach. It was clear why we had it to ourselves -- black sand in midday sun is freaking hot. Especially when your feet sink in a couple of inches as you run to the grassy area of a hotel.
Black sand beaches like Hermosa Beach near Jaco are formed from volcanic basalt rock that erodes and is carried to the coast over millennia. Unlike white sand (which is ground coral or quartz), black sand absorbs significantly more solar radiation -- surface temperatures can exceed 60 degrees Celsius (140F) in direct midday sun, making it genuinely dangerous to walk on barefoot. Jaco is located on Costa Rica's Central Pacific coast, approximately 100 kilometres west of San Jose, and sits at the northern end of the Carara National Park buffer zone. The consistent Pacific swells and the black sand of Hermosa Beach -- 8 kilometres south of Jaco -- create some of the most consistent surf conditions in Central America, regularly hosting professional competitions. The town of Jaco is known as Costa Rica's most developed beach resort and Pacific surfing hub.
We checked into our $30/night AirBnB hostel -- it was great. Private room, clean, great host, and 5 minutes to the beach and 10 minutes to the main restaurant strip. Although not as fancy as Manuel Antonio, I liked it more. Jaco is much more of a party town and we did not have any problems finding a place to eat. Even got to watch the second half of the NBA All Star game -- was actually a pretty great finish.
They also run a surf camp out of the same place -- Tortuga Surf Camp. So if it is a bucket list item for you, Jaco would be a great place to learn. The beaches in Jaco are the same black sand but because the water comes higher, the hot sand is less of an issue. It also has a very shallow break and the waves come in very consistent.
I did not take advantage of the surf camp -- boogie boarding is fine for me. Falling is a lot less painful with your head 6 feet closer to the water. No injuries = success.
After quick checkout -- back to San Jose to catch the flight to Panama City, with a quick stop to look at the crocs and a river valley.
"Boogie boarding fine for me -- falling is a lot less painful with your head 6 feet closer to the water. No injuries = success."